Quilted bags and wallets look upscale and sophisticated, and they are also surprisingly easy to make! If you can use a ruler and sew a straight stitch, you can make a quilted bag.
On our February 13th episode of the Bag Maker's Workroom, we talked all about quilted bags. I shared examples of quilted designer bags, how to get the volume or "puffiness" you're looking for, and how to quilt the iconic Dior Cannage pattern. You can watch the livestream recording below, or keep reading to learn more.
Bag Maker's Workroom: Quilted Bags
About Quilted Bags
Quilting is a technique that's been around for thousands of years, with roots in China, North Africa, and the Middle East. Over time, cultures all around the world developed their own unique quilting styles and techniques. Many people in the U.S. associate the word quilting with traditional patchwork quilts — but actually, the process of quilting simply means stitching together layers of fabric to create a padded surface.
Fun fact: Quilt comes from the Latin word culcita, which means cushion.
Quilted bags first became popular in 1955, when Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel released the iconic 2.55 bag. The 2.55 wasn't the first quilted bag ever made, but it was the first quilted leather handbag from an international fashion house. It instantly took off, selling over 100,000 units in its first year on the market. With its diamond quilting pattern, signature flap, and gold chain, the 2.55 is undoubtedly one of the most recognizable designer purses of all time.
In the 70 years since, quilted leather (and faux leather) bags have become a fashion staple. You can find them virtually everywhere, from luxury brands to small boutiques to your local Target. With this guide, you'll be making your own high-end quilted handbags in no time.
4 Common Quilted Patterns for Bag Making
The options for quilted bag patterns are limitless, but there are a few simple quilted patterns that you'll see most often.
1. Diamond Quilted Pattern
Diamond quilting is considered to be the classic quilted pattern because it’s what Chanel used on their very first quilted bag in 1955. The tote bag above is a quilted version of my own pattern, The Leah.
2. Chevron Quilted Pattern
Chevron quilting is another common style you’ll see on handbags, and it was also popularized by Chanel. The chevron quilted pattern is considered a little bit more modern than the classic diamond. Above, you can see two examples from Chanel and YSL.
3. Straight Line Quilted Pattern
Straight lines are very versatile because they can be horizontal, vertical, or even diagonal. The stitching can be spaced far apart or close together to give you very different effects. Here are two examples, both from Chanel.
4. Cannage Quilted Pattern
Cannage is Dior’s signature quilting pattern, shown above. We talked about it on the blog a few weeks ago, when we learned that it was inspired by a set of woven chairs used by Christian Dior.
Cannage is the quilting pattern we use for the Simply Classic Clutch. I walked through how to create this pattern in the Bag Maker's Workroom episode. I also have another video that includes all the steps, including stitching, that you can watch below.
Tools & Materials for Quilting on Leather & Faux Leather
To quilt on leather or faux leather, you just need a few simple tools and materials.
Note: This blog post contains affiliate links. When you purchase a product through my affiliate links, I will receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products that I personally use and enjoy.
Quilting on a Domestic Sewing Machine
Yes, you can quilt leather or faux leather on a domestic sewing machine! I use my Bernette b08 and it works beautifully. Make sure you're using a Teflon foot. A walking foot is optional but helpful.
To quilt on a domestic machine, you will need:
Leather or faux leather
Batting (optional)
Foam
Leather needle: I use a size 14
Thread: I use TEX-45, specifically Fusion 45. Alternately, you can use a heavy embroidery thread.
Quilting ruler
Temporary adhesive: I use 505 spray
Marking pen: I use this silver marking pen, which wipes off easily with a soft cloth
Quilting on an Industrial Sewing Machine
If you're stitching through very thick foam or two layers of foam, you'll probably want to opt for an industrial machine. Again, a walking foot is preferred but not required.
Here's what you'll need to quilt on an industrial sewing machine:
Leather or faux leather
Batting (optional)
Foam
Leather needle: I use a size 18
Thread: I use TEX-70
Quilting ruler
Temporary adhesive: I use 505 spray
Marking pen: I use this silver marking pen, which wipes off easily with a soft cloth
How to Choose the Right Foam Padding for Quilted Bags
Some quilted bags and wallets are very puffy and voluminous, while others are flatter. There isn’t one right way to make a quilted handbag; it’s really just a matter of preference. Let's see how we can create those different levels of puffiness. (A very technical term, I know!)
When we’re quilting bags, we’re working with a few different layers. In our case, the top layer is our leather or faux leather. Then we have our batting, and finally, we have our foam. The foam we use is what determines how puffy and dimensional the final bag will be.
I used a panel from our Simply Classic Clutch pattern to stitch up some examples for you. The emerald green panels are Italian leather, and the magenta is faux leather — you can use whichever material you'd prefer. I used Pellon Fusible Fleece Batting for all of these examples, but you can use whatever you have in your workroom. If you'd rather not use batting, that's ok too. It is optional, but I like the way it softens the appearance of the stitches.
Quilting One Layer of Foam
I used ByAnnie's Soft & Stable because I always have it in my workroom, but you can use whatever foam you prefer. For reference, Annie Soft & Stable is 0.175" (just over 4mm) thick.
Quilting Two Layers of Foam
Here's how the same pattern piece (in faux leather this time) looks with two layers of ByAnnie's Soft & Stable. Together, two layers are 0.35" (about 9mm) thick.
Quilting One Layer of Memory Foam
For a more upscale look, memory foam is a fantastic choice. I highly recommend the Luigi Carnevali Olso Memory Foam from Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. Mine is 5mm thick, and they have a 3mm version as well.
Quilting Two Layers of Memory Foam
Finally, I used two layers of memory foam to get this extra puffy look. I don't recommend doing this with a domestic machine, but my industrial handled it no problem. With two layers, the foam ends up being about 3/8" thick (10mm).
As you can see, the type and thickness of the foam you use really changes the look of the bag.
Happy Quilting!
Quilted bags chic and timeless, and they are so much fun to make! With just a few simple materials, you can make your own custom quilted bags at home.
Not sure where to start? Get the Simply Classic Clutch Makers Kit, available in six beautiful colors. It comes with the leather, lining, zipper and zipper pull that you'll need to make a designer-inspired quilted clutch.
Comments